I just logged into my bank to check on things and found that t-mobile had charged me double what my bill usually was, for my last month, even though I cancelled my account days after paying for the last month. I mean I expected some usage fees, but this is entirely out of the blue. I had not renewed in over 2 years, so I was not breaking any contract. Not really the type of thing you want to see when you are travelling. Im pissed.
Today was winter. So cold. Took a train through the rain forest towards the coast. Usually there are awe inspiring panoramas to take your breath away, today we stared at a thick wall of fog for most of it. But we were able to see some very cool plants, rivers, a hint of a waterfall, and hear some very interesting history of the Brazillian railroad and industry from the extremely friendly and knowledgable guide.
I am feeling sad about the lack of pictures. Will try to figure out a way to post some on a public computer, otherwise I will probably not get them up till we get back to Buenos Aires in about a week. Know they are coming soon though, and I will post a block of them for your viewing pleasure.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Thumbs up!!
The thumbs up sign has got to be my favorite here! It carries over the language barrier so well, and people use it liberally here!
So we left Sao Paulo yesterday on a comfortable ride to Curitiba. The ride was nice, and very scenic, with low hanging clouds hugging the hills, lush green everywhere you look, palm fronds everywhere. Small towns intersperced through the hills with colorful clothes on the line outside bright against the green. Huddled underneath the blanket we got specifically for the bus rides cause they blast the air-con, makes no sense in winter, I can imagine its nice in summer though. Leaving Sao Paulo is crazy because as you leave the city you realize how big it is, and you pass by miles and miles of slums. This is something I have not mentioned that much of, simply because Im not sure how to talk about it I guess. The poverty here is huge, it is obvious, and sad, and everywhere. There would be stretches of streets in SP, basically wherever there were not shops that were just lined with mattress after mattress, and people living there, huge communities actually. Whole families.
Curitiba is a clean, pretty city, much smaller than enywhere we have been yet, which is actually a nice change. We are staying in the old historic section of town and liking it a lot. Laast night we had a crazy rain storm, rain coming down in sheets with tons of lightning and thunder! We went to the Oscar Niemeyer Museum today which was amazing. Mostly because the guy was an incredible architect and the building is gorgeous! And there was some nice art too. Really though, if you ever have the opportunity to see any of his buildings (they are mostly in Brazil, but there is at least one in France) you should because they are so interesting. Besides that we walked around, there are very pretty parks everywhere here. There was one that was like amini zoo with birds and monkeys in these screened in habitats, a little aquarium that had the saddest fish I have ever seen, and the cutest mini turtles. Seriously, if I was a kid again and knew what I know now I would have chosen one of those instead of a gold fish. And probably named it turtle instead of fishy. We had lunch at a buffet/per kilo above the square we are staying by with a pretty clocktower right in the middle of it. Went grocery shopping for tomorrow which was an interesting experience because there was a guy walking around the very busy store telling all the specials over a microphone. We actually noticed this a lot today, in store, live commercials basically. They sound like they are on the radio, and some even sing it a little bit.
I have been learning a little Portuguese, enough to be understood pretty well, which feels good, but that feeling is immediately crushed when they respond and I have no idea what they said...
One thing I forgot to mention about Mc Donalds here....they deliver. Incredible.
Just to warn you all I will probably come back with some booty jeans with rhinestones and some high platform boots, and a super cropped jacket. Wyatt will be sporting some very complcated jeans with tons of straps and buckles and pockets. Also, he will probably be complaining about the price of beer since it is so unbelievably cheap here. Just a warning.
The majority of people with braces here are late teens and early twenties.
I have become addicted to a game on our computer called Spider Solitare. I play it for hours, and I have only won a few times.
I am also becoming addicted to the burgers here. The x-burger with ham and fried egg and cheese, tomato and lettuce, and mustard and ketchup that are kind of see through. They put bacon on them too, but I think thats a little much.
So we left Sao Paulo yesterday on a comfortable ride to Curitiba. The ride was nice, and very scenic, with low hanging clouds hugging the hills, lush green everywhere you look, palm fronds everywhere. Small towns intersperced through the hills with colorful clothes on the line outside bright against the green. Huddled underneath the blanket we got specifically for the bus rides cause they blast the air-con, makes no sense in winter, I can imagine its nice in summer though. Leaving Sao Paulo is crazy because as you leave the city you realize how big it is, and you pass by miles and miles of slums. This is something I have not mentioned that much of, simply because Im not sure how to talk about it I guess. The poverty here is huge, it is obvious, and sad, and everywhere. There would be stretches of streets in SP, basically wherever there were not shops that were just lined with mattress after mattress, and people living there, huge communities actually. Whole families.
Curitiba is a clean, pretty city, much smaller than enywhere we have been yet, which is actually a nice change. We are staying in the old historic section of town and liking it a lot. Laast night we had a crazy rain storm, rain coming down in sheets with tons of lightning and thunder! We went to the Oscar Niemeyer Museum today which was amazing. Mostly because the guy was an incredible architect and the building is gorgeous! And there was some nice art too. Really though, if you ever have the opportunity to see any of his buildings (they are mostly in Brazil, but there is at least one in France) you should because they are so interesting. Besides that we walked around, there are very pretty parks everywhere here. There was one that was like amini zoo with birds and monkeys in these screened in habitats, a little aquarium that had the saddest fish I have ever seen, and the cutest mini turtles. Seriously, if I was a kid again and knew what I know now I would have chosen one of those instead of a gold fish. And probably named it turtle instead of fishy. We had lunch at a buffet/per kilo above the square we are staying by with a pretty clocktower right in the middle of it. Went grocery shopping for tomorrow which was an interesting experience because there was a guy walking around the very busy store telling all the specials over a microphone. We actually noticed this a lot today, in store, live commercials basically. They sound like they are on the radio, and some even sing it a little bit.
I have been learning a little Portuguese, enough to be understood pretty well, which feels good, but that feeling is immediately crushed when they respond and I have no idea what they said...
One thing I forgot to mention about Mc Donalds here....they deliver. Incredible.
Just to warn you all I will probably come back with some booty jeans with rhinestones and some high platform boots, and a super cropped jacket. Wyatt will be sporting some very complcated jeans with tons of straps and buckles and pockets. Also, he will probably be complaining about the price of beer since it is so unbelievably cheap here. Just a warning.
The majority of people with braces here are late teens and early twenties.
I have become addicted to a game on our computer called Spider Solitare. I play it for hours, and I have only won a few times.
I am also becoming addicted to the burgers here. The x-burger with ham and fried egg and cheese, tomato and lettuce, and mustard and ketchup that are kind of see through. They put bacon on them too, but I think thats a little much.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Partly cloudy, partly rainy...
But only partly...
After I got off the computer from my last post it had stopped raining and we were able to walk around the city all day, and yesterday, and it only started raining again last night. And humid, it does amazing things tomy hair, the frizz factor is high.
There are some really incredible parts to this city. I was realizing after I wrote last time how hard it is to describe a place. Im not sure how good a job im doing, I feel like I use the same words over and over. But how can you convey how a city feels without smell and sound, and well as image?? I am trying, but feel like I am falling abit short.
Yesterday we went to the outdoor Asian market in Liberdade which is their Japanese section of town. The food aisle was the best part, fresh juices (we got mango and it was amazing!!!) fried meat, shrimp, vegetables, tempura, ramen, yakisoba, all fresh, cheap, hot, great. We got this big tempura disc with veggies and shrimp....oh man, it was so good.
I have about 15 bugbites on my body, 2 of which are on my face. The first night I was so afraid it was bedbugs after spending the whole night scratching and tossing and turning. Turns out they were only masquitoes, and Wyatt has made it his mission to kill every last one...he has been a keen and calculating killer, showing no mercy.
Some things I want to mention:
We have been watching some amazing Brazillian tv, most notably is the soap opera that seems to be India in Rio....and it is very big here. Bootleg on the street and everything. Everything seems to be Indian, they wear saris and keep showing the Taj Mahal, but it is setin Rio I think?? Then there is the show that looks like The Real World on MTV with a bunch of people living together but they have challenges and get voted off. Jonathon was the latest vote off, he seemed nice, its too bad.
Someone tossed a baby diaper out the window the other day and it almost hit Wyatt. That would have sucked.
There seems to be a thirving Goth scene here. Also, they have a mall entirely dedicated to skater wear, piercing, tattoos, store after store selling the same converse, vans, Bob Marley shirts, hoodies. There was also a store called Hippie Hop.
High heeled Converse, do they have these in the states??
McDonalds here is huge and sorta fancy. They have wireless and menus and some have waitresses, and a Mc Cafe with espresso etc. And I have to give them some love here because its the only place I can pee for free in the city.
Lonely Planet has led us wrong on many occasions. I know its hard to write a book on all of South America....just saying, been a bit burned by it.
Dominoes Pizza with dark wood counters and tables, a hostess, and a nicely suited huge bouncer out front.
The Vin Deisel of Brazil I swear was on our bus here. He was ENORMOUS!!! And he wore his sunglasses the whole time, even after it got dark, and he had tattoos everywhere, and when I got up to go to the bathroom on the bus, he was so huge he basically took up the whole aisle, and he just moved his leg and nodded like he was giving me permission.
Most stores and restaurants here are open air, with just the big metal wall they put down when they close. Lots of to go food places, where people just eat at the counter.
Ack, my computer is about to shut me off!!
We are leaving Sao Paulo tomorrow for Curitiba farther south. Hoping for nice weather to go to the coast on the train and then to Illho do Mel (honey island)!
After I got off the computer from my last post it had stopped raining and we were able to walk around the city all day, and yesterday, and it only started raining again last night. And humid, it does amazing things tomy hair, the frizz factor is high.
There are some really incredible parts to this city. I was realizing after I wrote last time how hard it is to describe a place. Im not sure how good a job im doing, I feel like I use the same words over and over. But how can you convey how a city feels without smell and sound, and well as image?? I am trying, but feel like I am falling abit short.
Yesterday we went to the outdoor Asian market in Liberdade which is their Japanese section of town. The food aisle was the best part, fresh juices (we got mango and it was amazing!!!) fried meat, shrimp, vegetables, tempura, ramen, yakisoba, all fresh, cheap, hot, great. We got this big tempura disc with veggies and shrimp....oh man, it was so good.
I have about 15 bugbites on my body, 2 of which are on my face. The first night I was so afraid it was bedbugs after spending the whole night scratching and tossing and turning. Turns out they were only masquitoes, and Wyatt has made it his mission to kill every last one...he has been a keen and calculating killer, showing no mercy.
Some things I want to mention:
We have been watching some amazing Brazillian tv, most notably is the soap opera that seems to be India in Rio....and it is very big here. Bootleg on the street and everything. Everything seems to be Indian, they wear saris and keep showing the Taj Mahal, but it is setin Rio I think?? Then there is the show that looks like The Real World on MTV with a bunch of people living together but they have challenges and get voted off. Jonathon was the latest vote off, he seemed nice, its too bad.
Someone tossed a baby diaper out the window the other day and it almost hit Wyatt. That would have sucked.
There seems to be a thirving Goth scene here. Also, they have a mall entirely dedicated to skater wear, piercing, tattoos, store after store selling the same converse, vans, Bob Marley shirts, hoodies. There was also a store called Hippie Hop.
High heeled Converse, do they have these in the states??
McDonalds here is huge and sorta fancy. They have wireless and menus and some have waitresses, and a Mc Cafe with espresso etc. And I have to give them some love here because its the only place I can pee for free in the city.
Lonely Planet has led us wrong on many occasions. I know its hard to write a book on all of South America....just saying, been a bit burned by it.
Dominoes Pizza with dark wood counters and tables, a hostess, and a nicely suited huge bouncer out front.
The Vin Deisel of Brazil I swear was on our bus here. He was ENORMOUS!!! And he wore his sunglasses the whole time, even after it got dark, and he had tattoos everywhere, and when I got up to go to the bathroom on the bus, he was so huge he basically took up the whole aisle, and he just moved his leg and nodded like he was giving me permission.
Most stores and restaurants here are open air, with just the big metal wall they put down when they close. Lots of to go food places, where people just eat at the counter.
Ack, my computer is about to shut me off!!
We are leaving Sao Paulo tomorrow for Curitiba farther south. Hoping for nice weather to go to the coast on the train and then to Illho do Mel (honey island)!
Saturday, July 25, 2009
Sao Paulo
Wednesday was the perfect last day; sunny, warm, relaxed. We had açai gelato, and a huge coconut of coconut water which was delicious! Laid outin the sun, read, re-worked our itinerary. Hung out with Amber and Brown on the beach drinking caipirina after caipivodka, and then went and hung out by the water in the strong spotlights from the boardwalk.
We left Rio on Thursday headed for Sao Paulo. The tickets for the bus were $50 more than we had anticipated, which was a little bit of a blow, especially since it wasn´t an overnight bus that accounts for a nights stay. Oh well. Bus was nice, only a 6.5 hour trip with pretty scenery and the most beautiful sunset I have seen yet! Also got to watch The Princess Diaries 2, and A Fish Called Wanda, both in Portuguese....weird. About an hour outside of Sao Paulo it started to rain.....
It has rained steadily since we have gotten here. Which would be fine except most of what we want to do here is walk around the city, and all of the inside things we have attempted have fallen short of awesome. I am having a hard time liking this city. Well, hard time loving it, but there are some things I like....
We have our OWN ROOM!! Not having to deal with the guy in the bunk above snoring, and the smell of other peoples months worn shoes, and drunk loudness at 4:30 in the morning, and all those hostel things is great. The place we are in is within the old town part of the city, and it it is right on a pedestrian street. There are some awesome buildings in our area; old crumbling mansions and massive stone buildings that look like they were amazing in their prime, and tall buildings that seem to be completely glass. The food is incredibley cheap, juice bars on every corner that make amazing fresh juices, set plates of rice, beans, meat, and salad for about $3.00, and the "street meat " guy who makes sandwiches with meat carved off the spit, like with gyros or suvlaki at Greek places, with fresh salsa, and a whole condiment area. These guys are everywhere and cheap and delicious. Wyatt is addicted. And we are finally in a place that likes food spicy and has hot sauce everywhere! I love Argentina, but I love spicy food, and that does not really happen there.
Also, we got here right at the beginning of the weekend, and when we walked up to our hotel around 10pm, there was one of the open air juice\food\bar places right next door just packed with people with live music and people dancing and singing and drinking! So cool. People here for sure like to party.
We went to the Art Museum of Sao Paulo yesterday and the building was really cool looking from the outside, but it looked kinda small for the largest collection of Western Art in latin America. They have a super large collection but I guess only do specialized shows and pull from the archives for that, because out of the 5,000 pieces I read they house, we saw maybe 150. I was dissapointed. I was so in the mood to spend hours looking at art, out of the rain. Its funny, rain doesnt bother me at all at home. I love it in fact. Here, it makes me depressed.
I think we will be here till Monday. I dont think they do WiFi here, so I am in an internet cafe. I have some pics I would love to post, but think they are going to wait till I can do them from our computer again.
Oh, I just looked outside and seems to have stopped raining for the moment!! Going to explore some more, and then tomorrow, the Sunday markets. I guess they have a pretty thriving Asian community here and in the Japanese section theres a market with fresh Gyoza....delicious!
Love to all.
We left Rio on Thursday headed for Sao Paulo. The tickets for the bus were $50 more than we had anticipated, which was a little bit of a blow, especially since it wasn´t an overnight bus that accounts for a nights stay. Oh well. Bus was nice, only a 6.5 hour trip with pretty scenery and the most beautiful sunset I have seen yet! Also got to watch The Princess Diaries 2, and A Fish Called Wanda, both in Portuguese....weird. About an hour outside of Sao Paulo it started to rain.....
It has rained steadily since we have gotten here. Which would be fine except most of what we want to do here is walk around the city, and all of the inside things we have attempted have fallen short of awesome. I am having a hard time liking this city. Well, hard time loving it, but there are some things I like....
We have our OWN ROOM!! Not having to deal with the guy in the bunk above snoring, and the smell of other peoples months worn shoes, and drunk loudness at 4:30 in the morning, and all those hostel things is great. The place we are in is within the old town part of the city, and it it is right on a pedestrian street. There are some awesome buildings in our area; old crumbling mansions and massive stone buildings that look like they were amazing in their prime, and tall buildings that seem to be completely glass. The food is incredibley cheap, juice bars on every corner that make amazing fresh juices, set plates of rice, beans, meat, and salad for about $3.00, and the "street meat " guy who makes sandwiches with meat carved off the spit, like with gyros or suvlaki at Greek places, with fresh salsa, and a whole condiment area. These guys are everywhere and cheap and delicious. Wyatt is addicted. And we are finally in a place that likes food spicy and has hot sauce everywhere! I love Argentina, but I love spicy food, and that does not really happen there.
Also, we got here right at the beginning of the weekend, and when we walked up to our hotel around 10pm, there was one of the open air juice\food\bar places right next door just packed with people with live music and people dancing and singing and drinking! So cool. People here for sure like to party.
We went to the Art Museum of Sao Paulo yesterday and the building was really cool looking from the outside, but it looked kinda small for the largest collection of Western Art in latin America. They have a super large collection but I guess only do specialized shows and pull from the archives for that, because out of the 5,000 pieces I read they house, we saw maybe 150. I was dissapointed. I was so in the mood to spend hours looking at art, out of the rain. Its funny, rain doesnt bother me at all at home. I love it in fact. Here, it makes me depressed.
I think we will be here till Monday. I dont think they do WiFi here, so I am in an internet cafe. I have some pics I would love to post, but think they are going to wait till I can do them from our computer again.
Oh, I just looked outside and seems to have stopped raining for the moment!! Going to explore some more, and then tomorrow, the Sunday markets. I guess they have a pretty thriving Asian community here and in the Japanese section theres a market with fresh Gyoza....delicious!
Love to all.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Some pics...
This is a traditional dish of Rio. It is called Feijoada, black beans with salted pork that is served with braised greens with more bacon in it, rice, ground cassava/yucca (the corn meal stuff molly was kind enough to correct me on) and a fresh salsa type of side. It was so good.
Vodka and soda with lime. Sadly, no cran, but I did get to drink it out of a sawed off soda bottle my ingenious boyfriend made for me.
Me trying to pose like a local. Not quite enough T and A though
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Tuesday Night....
Well, last night I had food poisoning. Not sure from what, but woke up around 4 in the morning with the feeling that my stomach and surrounding organs were being torn apart, lay in bed in agonizing pain for a little bit, and then spent about the next hour on the bathroom floor vomiting. At least Wyatt was with me, I swear, even though you feel so gross in situations like this, having a person there is always better than being by yourself. And I was glad it was the middle of the night cause it is never awesome when a lot of people are around, and using a public toilet for these things when you feel awful is one of the worst things ever. Almost the entire time the only thought I managed that was not involved with the immediate moment was that I understood why dogs (and probably other animals too) go find a solitary place to hide when they know they are going to die. All I wanted was to be in a hotel room alone with Wyatt. Ugh.
So today I have felt a bit fragile all day. We went to the beach for the first time in days but the weather was still cloudy and windy and the ocean was raging. Huge waves, and it was the first time I saw a lifeguard on the beach in a chair at the ready. U sually they are posted in towers up by the boardwalk.
Then we went over to Santa Theresa again to walk around and take mroe pics. And to see it from the street instead of just moving along on the train. It was very nice, the sunset was beautiful, and we had a nice walk/climb. Made it back, had some food that my poor damaged tummy seems to be dealing with ok, and starting a new book, and watching parts of the movie "Hurricane." Tomorrow is our last day here since we are going to Sao Paulo on Thursday, and it's supposed to be around 78 degrees tomorrow so my only plans are hanging on the beach with some coconut water and an acai gelato thing.
So today I have felt a bit fragile all day. We went to the beach for the first time in days but the weather was still cloudy and windy and the ocean was raging. Huge waves, and it was the first time I saw a lifeguard on the beach in a chair at the ready. U sually they are posted in towers up by the boardwalk.
Then we went over to Santa Theresa again to walk around and take mroe pics. And to see it from the street instead of just moving along on the train. It was very nice, the sunset was beautiful, and we had a nice walk/climb. Made it back, had some food that my poor damaged tummy seems to be dealing with ok, and starting a new book, and watching parts of the movie "Hurricane." Tomorrow is our last day here since we are going to Sao Paulo on Thursday, and it's supposed to be around 78 degrees tomorrow so my only plans are hanging on the beach with some coconut water and an acai gelato thing.
Monday, July 20, 2009
I have been having a hard time uploading, and had a major technical break down on blogger. So, re-writing this section without a few of the photos.
We visited the downtown/Centro area yesterday, Sunday. it was really cool, big old buildings in the muted colors of pink and yellow and blues and greens. Beautiful Museums that used to be palaces, guilded eagles, churches that were holding mass as we walked by and could get a glimpse of the ornate insides of those cavernous halls. It was rainy and grey and deserted, which was actually pretty nice cause we were able to wander freely without fighting for sidewalk space like you have to during hte week. It never stops surprising me how dead these cities are on the weekend during the day with so many people inhabiting the space. A lot of wandering empty streets, taking loads of photos. We made our way over to the small, antiquated tram that chugs up the hill to Santa Theresa, a beautiful hillside area. It was a beautiful rise, the views were incredble, the sun was breaking through the clouds in what I like to call "Biblical lighting" where you can see individual rays coming through very dark and very light areas, making a dramatic sky. Santa Theresa is my favorite area we have been in Rio (aside from the beaches of course), there was something magic up there. Also it was weird on our way up, this guy jumped on the tram with his friends and I had such a strong feeling I had met him before, but figured it was just a really strong feeling of dejavu I get sometimes. But then I told Wyatt when he got off and Wyatt agreed. We realized he had worked at the Clan hostel in Buenos Aires 2 years ago when we visited Shannon! Shannon, if you are reading this it was the guy who was dating your friend, and a little too flirtatious with you as well....what was his name???
So today it is Monday and it is grey and rainy again, and we tried to go up to Santa Theresa again to explore and have a meal but one of the cars broke down and we could not. So we got lunch and now are back at the Hostel trying to re-work our itinerary because we are staying here till thursday, change of plan, and we might try to cut some things out of the plan to make room for longer stays in places. Time slips away so fast! And all we want to do is be outside on the beach, exploring more of the city, and there have been some frusterations here at the hostel, but I am convinced tomorrow the sun will come out again!
We visited the downtown/Centro area yesterday, Sunday. it was really cool, big old buildings in the muted colors of pink and yellow and blues and greens. Beautiful Museums that used to be palaces, guilded eagles, churches that were holding mass as we walked by and could get a glimpse of the ornate insides of those cavernous halls. It was rainy and grey and deserted, which was actually pretty nice cause we were able to wander freely without fighting for sidewalk space like you have to during hte week. It never stops surprising me how dead these cities are on the weekend during the day with so many people inhabiting the space. A lot of wandering empty streets, taking loads of photos. We made our way over to the small, antiquated tram that chugs up the hill to Santa Theresa, a beautiful hillside area. It was a beautiful rise, the views were incredble, the sun was breaking through the clouds in what I like to call "Biblical lighting" where you can see individual rays coming through very dark and very light areas, making a dramatic sky. Santa Theresa is my favorite area we have been in Rio (aside from the beaches of course), there was something magic up there. Also it was weird on our way up, this guy jumped on the tram with his friends and I had such a strong feeling I had met him before, but figured it was just a really strong feeling of dejavu I get sometimes. But then I told Wyatt when he got off and Wyatt agreed. We realized he had worked at the Clan hostel in Buenos Aires 2 years ago when we visited Shannon! Shannon, if you are reading this it was the guy who was dating your friend, and a little too flirtatious with you as well....what was his name???
So today it is Monday and it is grey and rainy again, and we tried to go up to Santa Theresa again to explore and have a meal but one of the cars broke down and we could not. So we got lunch and now are back at the Hostel trying to re-work our itinerary because we are staying here till thursday, change of plan, and we might try to cut some things out of the plan to make room for longer stays in places. Time slips away so fast! And all we want to do is be outside on the beach, exploring more of the city, and there have been some frusterations here at the hostel, but I am convinced tomorrow the sun will come out again!
Taking the tram up to the Santa Marta hill...
Good lunch, I ordered somethign I had no idea what it was, and was plesantly surprised with a chicken soup with rice and carrot and yucca and potato. Wyatt got the daily plate that was yummy sausage, probably pork, a piece of roasted chicken, fries (of course) black beans, fresh salsa, and corm meal, which seems to go on many of the local dishes. It was also our first meal eating out!!
Sunday sightseeing
This used to be the royal palace, and is now an art museum
Everything closed up on Sunday.....beautiful tiled wall
This is the ferry dock/station
Saturday, July 18, 2009
Amber and Brown
So our hostel is amazing. The other night was tattoo night where one of the guys staying here was giving tattoos to people for what I imagine was a pretty discount price. Then yesterday everyone was makaing those knotted friendship bracelets, and there was a Capoiera (all of my spelling of Brazillian words is probably going to be wrong, sorry) show. For all who don't know, Capoiera is a very physical form of dance/fighting, and it is fluid and graceful and really beautiful. It was cool to see a performance, though they were very limited by the small space they had to do it in. We all watched with full attention, and tried not to get pulled in for the audience participation or the free dance, drinking bad wine and vodka orange juices out on the balcony.
So my new friend Amber is dating this guy Brown who she met in Africa while she was doing her Peace Corps service and now he is working here so she came here for holiday before flying home. They invited us to come out with them for Friday night on the town. How could we say no...?? We got on a bus and were taken on a crazy ride through downtown I think, into an area called Sao Cristoval to a place I kept thinking was a bar, or club. The bus let us off in a mediun between two busy lanes of traffic, in a sort of desolate looking place in the city. We walked over the highway crossing high above the road, and through streets dimly lit by food stalls with quiet radios. I was one of those weird feelings where I had absolutely no idea where we were and it had been a long bus ride so was doubful I could find my way back. But we were led by Brown and his friend Maurice who were very confident they knew where we were.
Turns out that we were going to this weekend market that I had wanted to go to on Sunday. Now I was invisioning food and crafts, you know, a market. It was like nothing I have ever been to before, food stalls, clothing, cd's, liquer "stores," restaurants, dance "clubs," a couple huge stages with like live concerts going on, so many different paths leading through one thing after the other, music everywhere, karaoke in the bar and food areas, little colorful flags strung up above us, walking through it all with tall cans of beer, listening to music, dancing and sweating, watching people everywhere dancing samba and traditional serious couples, to people dirty dancing and making out everywhere. It was anything goes, it felt like we were in the real Rio, no other tourists that we could see, it felt completely authentic. And I wished so hard I had my camera!! Oh man, the things I saw, and wanted to capture! But it was all such a feeling and time and place that....well, so it goes. And Wyatt danced with me! That has only happened a hand full of times. We were in the Reggae area (of course, it was his Jamaican side coming out!) it was dark with only a few random bulbs, Brown and Maurice were dancing and saying something in Portuguese over the microphone the dj kept handing them so excited that guys from Africa speaking awesome Portuguese were dancing their excited dance. It was so fun, I was trying to watch the girls there and mimic their moves, but there is something people are born with here that I don't have. But I danced hard anyway, and it was like a fire, we were all burning up! After a few hours there, and one of the best capairinis I have ever had (cane liquer, tons of sugar, and even more limes) later we decided to head to the next spot. We hopped on the next bus to go to Lapa, which was back a bit closer to our place. The buses here are crazy, for real, careening around, fast as hell, the bus bumping around so hard Amber hit her head! You have to hold on to somthing most of the time.
We arrived in Lapa and found that it was basically a massive block party, but again, like nothing I have ever seen. It was dirty, and crowded and smelly....mostly from the entire allyways that are designated "bathrooms" cause everyone just pisses in the street in the open, no care to who is there, it was gross, but, I don't know, that's what is done. At least to combat that is the amazing smell of grill with all kinds of meat grilling. It was around 3:30 in the morning when we got there which was hard to beleive because of how many people were out. These people know how to party!! And it is fun to party with them, and it was the first time we have gone out since we have been here,but it was so cheap and just pulsing and grinding and full on!
We sat and had more drinks and burgers from the grill with fried egg and ham and cheese and mayo and the fried potato pieces that people like so much here. It was one of the most satisfying and messing eating experiences I have ever had.
We got back around 6:15am, mixed up the last of the vodka and sat on the balcony to watch the sky lighten up.
So my new friend Amber is dating this guy Brown who she met in Africa while she was doing her Peace Corps service and now he is working here so she came here for holiday before flying home. They invited us to come out with them for Friday night on the town. How could we say no...?? We got on a bus and were taken on a crazy ride through downtown I think, into an area called Sao Cristoval to a place I kept thinking was a bar, or club. The bus let us off in a mediun between two busy lanes of traffic, in a sort of desolate looking place in the city. We walked over the highway crossing high above the road, and through streets dimly lit by food stalls with quiet radios. I was one of those weird feelings where I had absolutely no idea where we were and it had been a long bus ride so was doubful I could find my way back. But we were led by Brown and his friend Maurice who were very confident they knew where we were.
Turns out that we were going to this weekend market that I had wanted to go to on Sunday. Now I was invisioning food and crafts, you know, a market. It was like nothing I have ever been to before, food stalls, clothing, cd's, liquer "stores," restaurants, dance "clubs," a couple huge stages with like live concerts going on, so many different paths leading through one thing after the other, music everywhere, karaoke in the bar and food areas, little colorful flags strung up above us, walking through it all with tall cans of beer, listening to music, dancing and sweating, watching people everywhere dancing samba and traditional serious couples, to people dirty dancing and making out everywhere. It was anything goes, it felt like we were in the real Rio, no other tourists that we could see, it felt completely authentic. And I wished so hard I had my camera!! Oh man, the things I saw, and wanted to capture! But it was all such a feeling and time and place that....well, so it goes. And Wyatt danced with me! That has only happened a hand full of times. We were in the Reggae area (of course, it was his Jamaican side coming out!) it was dark with only a few random bulbs, Brown and Maurice were dancing and saying something in Portuguese over the microphone the dj kept handing them so excited that guys from Africa speaking awesome Portuguese were dancing their excited dance. It was so fun, I was trying to watch the girls there and mimic their moves, but there is something people are born with here that I don't have. But I danced hard anyway, and it was like a fire, we were all burning up! After a few hours there, and one of the best capairinis I have ever had (cane liquer, tons of sugar, and even more limes) later we decided to head to the next spot. We hopped on the next bus to go to Lapa, which was back a bit closer to our place. The buses here are crazy, for real, careening around, fast as hell, the bus bumping around so hard Amber hit her head! You have to hold on to somthing most of the time.
We arrived in Lapa and found that it was basically a massive block party, but again, like nothing I have ever seen. It was dirty, and crowded and smelly....mostly from the entire allyways that are designated "bathrooms" cause everyone just pisses in the street in the open, no care to who is there, it was gross, but, I don't know, that's what is done. At least to combat that is the amazing smell of grill with all kinds of meat grilling. It was around 3:30 in the morning when we got there which was hard to beleive because of how many people were out. These people know how to party!! And it is fun to party with them, and it was the first time we have gone out since we have been here,but it was so cheap and just pulsing and grinding and full on!
We sat and had more drinks and burgers from the grill with fried egg and ham and cheese and mayo and the fried potato pieces that people like so much here. It was one of the most satisfying and messing eating experiences I have ever had.
We got back around 6:15am, mixed up the last of the vodka and sat on the balcony to watch the sky lighten up.
There is an extreme level of posing for the camera that takes place here. I mean I think we have all done this, take one of yourself, but the girls here are serious. Usually it starts with the boyfriend/husband with the camera snapping a few then he will hand it over and she will critique him and tell him what he is doing wrong and either hand it back or just do it herself as guy looks embarrassedly on. And the poses are as if it's for a magazine, hip cocked, up on one toe with knee slightly bent, head tilted. These girls know how to work it.
Friday, July 17, 2009
Dear Tourist....
We got up early today and were out on our way just before ten. That felt pretty good, as we have gotten very good at really making our morning stretch out and not leaving to start our day till 11 or after.
It was beautiful and clear out so we decided today was the day to go up to Christ the Redeamer. It was about a half hour bus ride up to where the cog train station is that takes you the rest of the way up. The bus ride was great, we saw parts of the city we had not seen yet, lots of lush green vegetation, ferns, and palm, all very tropical. We passed a lot of buildings that reminded me of traveling in the south...the south of north america, that is. I want to say colonial...? With lots of dark iron gates and colomns, and pale yellows and pink paint. Really beautiful. Then we got to the train depot that was the first electrified train in Brazil I later found out, and has since become a major tourist destination. The Lonely Planet was wrong again on price. Herds of people waiting in line. As we got nearer to the ticket window I noticed a plaque that read:
"Dear tourist, we are not responsible for any change in weather at the top of the mountain. Thank you."
I felt like I was waiting in line at an amusement park, it was long, it was hot, I was bored and hoping it was worth it. Then we finally got on the two car train and slowly started heading up the steep mountain face. At first we just saw rock wall, and vines. Then we started getting glimpses of the city, and we were climbing fast since the incline was so steep, and it was incredible!
The hordes of people were massive, the statue is huge, the view was awesome. The mountain is much higher than Sugar Loaf and we could see much farther. We could also see how little of the city we have been to. It is massive, and seeing all of it spread out was indeed worth it.
We took, not the wrong bus back, but the longer bus back accidentally. Good part being that we saw more, bad part that it took out of our daily beach time!!
It was beautiful and clear out so we decided today was the day to go up to Christ the Redeamer. It was about a half hour bus ride up to where the cog train station is that takes you the rest of the way up. The bus ride was great, we saw parts of the city we had not seen yet, lots of lush green vegetation, ferns, and palm, all very tropical. We passed a lot of buildings that reminded me of traveling in the south...the south of north america, that is. I want to say colonial...? With lots of dark iron gates and colomns, and pale yellows and pink paint. Really beautiful. Then we got to the train depot that was the first electrified train in Brazil I later found out, and has since become a major tourist destination. The Lonely Planet was wrong again on price. Herds of people waiting in line. As we got nearer to the ticket window I noticed a plaque that read:
"Dear tourist, we are not responsible for any change in weather at the top of the mountain. Thank you."
I felt like I was waiting in line at an amusement park, it was long, it was hot, I was bored and hoping it was worth it. Then we finally got on the two car train and slowly started heading up the steep mountain face. At first we just saw rock wall, and vines. Then we started getting glimpses of the city, and we were climbing fast since the incline was so steep, and it was incredible!
The hordes of people were massive, the statue is huge, the view was awesome. The mountain is much higher than Sugar Loaf and we could see much farther. We could also see how little of the city we have been to. It is massive, and seeing all of it spread out was indeed worth it.
We took, not the wrong bus back, but the longer bus back accidentally. Good part being that we saw more, bad part that it took out of our daily beach time!!
Thursday, July 16, 2009
"Do you want to buy a hammock??"
Today was beautiful. We literally spent the entire day at the beach. Wyatt read an entire book and I am working on the second half of mine. We got asked about 5 times a minute if we wanted to buy anything...the amount of people on the beach selling shit is amazing. There are the sarong sellers, the beverage guys, the shrimp skewer guys who go by just saying "camerone, camerone".....there are the ones who have the radio anouncer voices, and others who lack flair, but who can blame them because they are walking back and forth so many times. There are the bikini umbrellas, the t-shirts, the dresses, the sunglasses, the jewelry, the random foods....and then it seems like when you say "no" they think that just means your holding out for the real merchendise which is weed or cocaine...and they all have the good stuff.
Summer in the wintertime
It is amazing to me how clean they keep these beaches. They are pretty pristine. I mean I guess when so much tourism is centered around them it makes sense, but the city is butted right up against them and it is a big city. And they are big beaches.....mad props on a job well done, I think I may have seen one piece of trash laying on the sand in the whole time we have been here.
Ipanema
Copacabana
Ipanema
Copacabana
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
A whole bottle of very cheap vodka later....
And I feel like ass today. Why do I do things like that?? I can hardly move....
At least it is grey and rainy and the perfect day to not do anything but curse my actions and spend most the day in bed. Oh, and watch "One tree hill" on tv, but that might have actually made me feel worse cause it is so bad.
Oh, and I feel like a very stupid American tourist for miss-spelling Ipanema all those times. Desculpa.
Why do they have a huge Sponge Bob statue on top of Sugar Loaf?? I was just looking back through my photos and wondering that. And then, what I didn't mention was that in the distance behind him is the Christ the Redeamer statue, so he is holding the same pose....that much I get.
We have been falling harder and harder for this place. And we found the cheap grocery store!! I think the first one we went to was like Rio's New Seasons. We actually have not even eaten out yet, just cooking all our meals. But I know soon we will have to hit up a few per-kilo places, and try some local food! I remember watching the Anthony Bourdain show on Brazil and how incredible all the food looked and trying to remember the names of everything so I could try it when we got here.
So we decided last night that we will be here until Monday when we will head down to Sao Paulo, which is only a blessed 6 1/2 hours away. Easy.
There is a rooster here that walks up and down our street. It wakes us up in the morning, and crows for what seems like hours, sounding more and more horse as the time goes. I really hate that bird.
We missed breakfast this morning and Wyatt made his delicious breakkie potatoes and rice and chicken. I was able to eat at that point and it was good. He is really doing a great job of putting up with me and my stupid hangover. And just being an A+ boyfriend all around.
I have made a few friends here! Our very sweet roomates checked out today :( But there is an American girl, Amber, staying here who just finished 3.5 years in Africa in the Peace Corps and we have hit it off. It's nice having a little girl time every so often, cause I miss my ladies so hard back home! And I made friends with this sweet French guy last night. I think his name is Loic and we talked about travel a lot and rambled together about all the places we want to go in the world looking at a map. He was impressed by the places I have been and I think I was feeling pretty proud of myself. But he is really nice and gave me his email for if I'm ever in the south of France cause his family has a house there and I could stay there. Yeah, the south of france sounds pretty nice.
I have not yet chosen which sarong to buy from the beach guys who walk by you all day fluttering things at you to buy. What do you all think, the one that shows the whole stretch of Copacabana beach with Christo rising out of the water much bigger than he is, just enormous like he is embracing the city.....or like maybe the Bob Marley one (cause everyone like Bob Marley!), or maybe stay basic with the Brazillian flag?
I feel like I want to keep rambling on but maybe I should wait to write more when I have more to say.
Love and kisses, and big misses to all.
At least it is grey and rainy and the perfect day to not do anything but curse my actions and spend most the day in bed. Oh, and watch "One tree hill" on tv, but that might have actually made me feel worse cause it is so bad.
Oh, and I feel like a very stupid American tourist for miss-spelling Ipanema all those times. Desculpa.
Why do they have a huge Sponge Bob statue on top of Sugar Loaf?? I was just looking back through my photos and wondering that. And then, what I didn't mention was that in the distance behind him is the Christ the Redeamer statue, so he is holding the same pose....that much I get.
We have been falling harder and harder for this place. And we found the cheap grocery store!! I think the first one we went to was like Rio's New Seasons. We actually have not even eaten out yet, just cooking all our meals. But I know soon we will have to hit up a few per-kilo places, and try some local food! I remember watching the Anthony Bourdain show on Brazil and how incredible all the food looked and trying to remember the names of everything so I could try it when we got here.
So we decided last night that we will be here until Monday when we will head down to Sao Paulo, which is only a blessed 6 1/2 hours away. Easy.
There is a rooster here that walks up and down our street. It wakes us up in the morning, and crows for what seems like hours, sounding more and more horse as the time goes. I really hate that bird.
We missed breakfast this morning and Wyatt made his delicious breakkie potatoes and rice and chicken. I was able to eat at that point and it was good. He is really doing a great job of putting up with me and my stupid hangover. And just being an A+ boyfriend all around.
I have made a few friends here! Our very sweet roomates checked out today :( But there is an American girl, Amber, staying here who just finished 3.5 years in Africa in the Peace Corps and we have hit it off. It's nice having a little girl time every so often, cause I miss my ladies so hard back home! And I made friends with this sweet French guy last night. I think his name is Loic and we talked about travel a lot and rambled together about all the places we want to go in the world looking at a map. He was impressed by the places I have been and I think I was feeling pretty proud of myself. But he is really nice and gave me his email for if I'm ever in the south of France cause his family has a house there and I could stay there. Yeah, the south of france sounds pretty nice.
I have not yet chosen which sarong to buy from the beach guys who walk by you all day fluttering things at you to buy. What do you all think, the one that shows the whole stretch of Copacabana beach with Christo rising out of the water much bigger than he is, just enormous like he is embracing the city.....or like maybe the Bob Marley one (cause everyone like Bob Marley!), or maybe stay basic with the Brazillian flag?
I feel like I want to keep rambling on but maybe I should wait to write more when I have more to say.
Love and kisses, and big misses to all.
Monday, July 13, 2009
These are never in the order I want to post them!
To the left are Impemena and Copa beaches, and we are staying that area, int he center in the far distance is the peak where Cristo de Redentor (sp) is overseeing the city
The cable car wires going down....on top of Poa de Acurar (again, sp?)
I torture him with all the photos...
Life is a beach....
...Wyatt kept saying that today...I thought it was funny, but in our case, today, it happened to be true.
Today felt like the first day of vacation. We woke up to sun and blue sky and the best complimentary breakfast (except for Bali) I think I have had. We ate out on the balcony in the warm morning air, pineapple water and hot coffee.
We spent a leisurely morning, and then left the hostel to walk the few blocks to the beach. First Copacabana beach, and then on to Impanema. Oh my god, there is a good reason these beaches are so famous...they are stunning. Really, really stunning. People everywhere, even though it's Monday, even though it's "winter." We watched old guys in speedos strutting, young guys in speedos running and playing soccer, the girls lined up on the towell face down with the thong, barely there bikinis (Wyatt wanted me to take that photo for you, brettley). the people are amazing looking here, and self conciousness is a none issue. Really, it's refreshing, body image here seems to be awesome, everyone is showing it all.
The waves are surprisingly huge. We were the most relaxed we have been, we walked all day and then decided to go up to Sugar Loaf mountain, the famous peak looking out over all of Rio, and we realized how little we had actually covered. This city is huge. But spectacular. We stayed for the sunset and later, sharing a beer in the dark looking out over the lights of the city.
When we got back to the hostel everyone was getting ready to go out on a boat party. On a boat...
Today felt like the first day of vacation. We woke up to sun and blue sky and the best complimentary breakfast (except for Bali) I think I have had. We ate out on the balcony in the warm morning air, pineapple water and hot coffee.
We spent a leisurely morning, and then left the hostel to walk the few blocks to the beach. First Copacabana beach, and then on to Impanema. Oh my god, there is a good reason these beaches are so famous...they are stunning. Really, really stunning. People everywhere, even though it's Monday, even though it's "winter." We watched old guys in speedos strutting, young guys in speedos running and playing soccer, the girls lined up on the towell face down with the thong, barely there bikinis (Wyatt wanted me to take that photo for you, brettley). the people are amazing looking here, and self conciousness is a none issue. Really, it's refreshing, body image here seems to be awesome, everyone is showing it all.
The waves are surprisingly huge. We were the most relaxed we have been, we walked all day and then decided to go up to Sugar Loaf mountain, the famous peak looking out over all of Rio, and we realized how little we had actually covered. This city is huge. But spectacular. We stayed for the sunset and later, sharing a beer in the dark looking out over the lights of the city.
When we got back to the hostel everyone was getting ready to go out on a boat party. On a boat...
Her name is Rio, and she dances on the saaaand.....!
We made it. Got on the bus in B.A. around 8:30pm on Friday night, got into Rio around 1:30pm on Sunday. Earlier than we expected actually, so it ended up being more like 42 hours. And, to tell you the truth, both Wyatt and I agreed that it was one of the smoothest, most comfortable, easiest long distance hauls we had ever done. I mean, I get off 12 hour flights feeling like shit, wondering every minute how long until we land. This wasn't like that. We slept reasonabley well, we kicked down a little extra cash to have the Cama class seats, which means they recline pretty far and you get more room in general. It was worth it. It was also nice getting to see the landscape along the way. (Oh, and thanks so much everyone for all the well wishes on my poor sickyness. I am feeling all better now! )We got to see some really cheesey movies, listen to some horrifyingly mind numbing conversation by a couple of Canadian guys for the 16 hours to Iguazu, eat some questionable meat and cold egg dishes provided by the bus line, catch up on our reading, and complete some harrowing acts of balance and courage by mastering the bus bathroom.
Saturday morning was beautiful, it had rained a lot the night before and we woke up feeling a little aprehensive of going through customs, since we had such a time with the embassy and everything. We went through Iguazu around 1:30 I think, and it was really smotth. We had to fill out more health cards, and stand in some lines, but all in all, went pretty good. Then for dinner we had our first experience with the per-kilo restaurant, and with Brazilian money. And, then there is the beautiful, mysterious language that i don't know at all except how to say "thank you" from being in Portugal years ago. It's a little nerve wracking. Spanish I can get by, I understand a lot of what is going on around me....This will just be a little harder.
We went through Sao paulo around 6:30 yesterday morning, surreal in my half conciousness, huge bus station.
Rio de Janeiro is like no city I have ever been before. It was really stormy most of yesterday, raining when we arrived. We had to haggle for a cab, manageing not to be too horribley over priced. It was a whirlwind drive to the hostel, through crazy streets and tunnels, with Christ the Redeamer over my shoulder, a vague feeling of memory from all the pictures I have seen, but totally alien sights as well. Basically, neither of can believe we have actually arrived.
Got to the hostel in Copacabana, about 7 blocks fromt he beach, on one of the steepest roads I have ever seen. Got a room, more dorm beds, and set out to explore a little. Not too adventurous yet, but walked all along the boardwalk, sand swirling around us from the heavy wind, the waves crashing, people riding bikes, jogging, hanging out in bright yellow plastic chairs drinking out of huge cocoanuts.
We went to the New Seasons of Rio I think to get supplies to make dinner, and realized that this is probably a city that will end up being cheaper to eat out than to cook. Spent a relaxing night eating a solid meal, meeting some of the people staying here, and catching up on Gray's Anatomy.
Rio is dirty, and wild, and awesome, with an energy that can't be put into words. It definately has a life of it's own, moody, and brilliant. I wish I could tell you more than just some cliches, but it just fits right now. Such a magnificiant landscape too. We are here.
Saturday morning was beautiful, it had rained a lot the night before and we woke up feeling a little aprehensive of going through customs, since we had such a time with the embassy and everything. We went through Iguazu around 1:30 I think, and it was really smotth. We had to fill out more health cards, and stand in some lines, but all in all, went pretty good. Then for dinner we had our first experience with the per-kilo restaurant, and with Brazilian money. And, then there is the beautiful, mysterious language that i don't know at all except how to say "thank you" from being in Portugal years ago. It's a little nerve wracking. Spanish I can get by, I understand a lot of what is going on around me....This will just be a little harder.
We went through Sao paulo around 6:30 yesterday morning, surreal in my half conciousness, huge bus station.
Rio de Janeiro is like no city I have ever been before. It was really stormy most of yesterday, raining when we arrived. We had to haggle for a cab, manageing not to be too horribley over priced. It was a whirlwind drive to the hostel, through crazy streets and tunnels, with Christ the Redeamer over my shoulder, a vague feeling of memory from all the pictures I have seen, but totally alien sights as well. Basically, neither of can believe we have actually arrived.
Got to the hostel in Copacabana, about 7 blocks fromt he beach, on one of the steepest roads I have ever seen. Got a room, more dorm beds, and set out to explore a little. Not too adventurous yet, but walked all along the boardwalk, sand swirling around us from the heavy wind, the waves crashing, people riding bikes, jogging, hanging out in bright yellow plastic chairs drinking out of huge cocoanuts.
We went to the New Seasons of Rio I think to get supplies to make dinner, and realized that this is probably a city that will end up being cheaper to eat out than to cook. Spent a relaxing night eating a solid meal, meeting some of the people staying here, and catching up on Gray's Anatomy.
Rio is dirty, and wild, and awesome, with an energy that can't be put into words. It definately has a life of it's own, moody, and brilliant. I wish I could tell you more than just some cliches, but it just fits right now. Such a magnificiant landscape too. We are here.
Friday, July 10, 2009
Going to copa...copacabana...!
Hey all, Wyatt and I are leaving Buenos Aires in about an hour and heading up to Rio. Will probably be out of internet service till Sunday night or Monday. Long bus haul awaits us....
Love to all.
Love to all.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
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