So, our day in Cartagena was good. We went to the Modern Art Museum, and I actually liked more than I didn't there, making it a big success! Also, the building it was in is very nice, exposed brick, historical setting in old town, right by a church, very nice. We just walked around a lot and shopped, and ate street food snacks. Wyatt and Kim decided to go check out the Gold Museum later in the day while I watched a dance troup perform in one of the beautiful, leafy squares. When they came out of the museum, they were being escorted by an older man who was gesturing dramatically with his hands, and making "come hither" movements for them to follow him. I caught up and found out that he was taking them to the "other part of the museum, the gold factory!" which sounded a little fishy, but he was so enthusiastic, and telling us about the upcoming Cartagena festival where they crown Miss Colombia, that we felt we had to follow. Well, the gold factory turned out to just be a store where they sold gold jewelry and told you that you should not miss this great opportunity to buy gold at such great prices!!
Graham came and met up with us! It was nice to be re-united after that day we had spent apart. We took him to the old square right inside the old town walls to drink beers and smokey whiskey, and then back to our rooms for drinks, and high hopes for clear skies in the morning!
We woke up early and hung over to get on the boat to Playa Blanca. We took a cab to a busy morning market/docking area where we were immediately accosted by people with boats leaving for the island. We got on one that was already seemingly at capacity, which we discovered was actually far from it. It is amazing how much more they can fit on those boats than you would ever think! We were sitting on it for so long, inhaling gas fumes and being pressed in further and further when more and more peopel would get on. Finally, they were done loading, and we set out, at an amazingly fast clip! We were all the way up front and as we sailed across the top of the water it felt like we were skimming along a rock pile, with leaps into the air, and about 3 foot falls, up and down, my stomach was in my throat most the way. But we got there fast, only about 45 minutes, and then we were on the beach.
The sting of not going to Venezuela has been almost erased. Playa Blanca is the quintessential Carribean Beach, a beautiful stretch of satiny soft powdery white sand, butting up against crystal clear aquamarine water that splashed on the beach in relaxed little waves most the time. It is an elusive color I have found, not translating into photos very well. I have been frusterated about how my pictures have not been able to capture the beauty we have been seeing. But at the same time, the fact that the beauty is too big to fit into a frame is not such a bad thing either.
We found a really nice spot with tents and hammocks, very cheap, our own palapa with 4 hammocks all in a row and our own table, and only steps from the beach. Also, they had just caught a shark that morning, so for lunch we had fresh shark (my first time!) and shrimp. I like shark a lot, really tasty meat, and exciting to be having a new food experience.
So, we hunkered down into beachy relaxation mode. The sun came out and lit up the water. The water is warm and we could see schools of yellow fish with wide black stripes. There are lots of big boats that come in with tourists but they were downt he beach aways and the stretch we were on remained fairly quiet, aside from the sellers trying to get you to buy their wares at outrageous prices. It's all about the haggel.
The only down side to the whole thing is the bug situation, which was fierce. We have taken to liberally applying Deet to pretty much any surface we can, because we all look like we have polka dots from how many bites we get! Thank god for the mosquito nets on our hammocks!!
Yesterday was about the laziest day in recent memory, and we have been doing lots of beachy days. Man, this is the vacation of vacations! Just one incredible beach after another!! Kim rented a mask and snorkle and it was amazing floating around and looking at the fish and the coral. There is so much to see right up near the shore, I was shocked at how many different fish there were! I have never snorkled before and I loved it!
We did have to finally say goodbye to Graham for good, or, that is until we get back to Portland as he and Shannon leave on the 1st. It was sad, but we were all so glad that he had come and we had all been able to have another few days together, we made it lighthearted and quick.
We ate dinner at a new spot down the beach. We walked on the beach at sunset, and then Wyatt and I took a walk down the beach after the sun set and the moon was so bright that we could see all the way down the stretch of sand without lights on! It was beautiful. The bugs are so intense there are not many choices of things to do after the sun goes down, and as we have been adjusting our sleep schedules to the day cycles, we head to our hammocks to read. A few hours later, after being asleep on and off fitfully for a little while, I started awake to find myself staring into the eyes of a huge bull. Herds of cows and donkeys wander through the area every once in a while, but I had no idea what to do in my half asleep discovery, so I just started saying "Psst, shoo, go away" in a whisper. Then Kim started awake with a "Huh??!!" I said, "there's a cow," and she shown her headlamp on it, showing it's big face chewing on something off our table, and told me, "that is a bull." Then in whispers we started running down the list of things we hoped it wasn't eating, like the tube of Benedryl anit-itch cream for bites, or a pack of cigarettes, or a plastic bag, and broke down in a fit of giggles as the bull wandered away. It turns out it was only a lemon it had eaten.
It is so weird that today is Halloween! I started the morning with a swim in totally calm water, around 6:30, finished my book, and with nothing else to read just sat and stared at the water. We packed up and left around 3:30 on the big slow tourist boat that Ubi, our friend from Medellin who ran the place we stayed, got us a deal on, our plan being to stay in Cartagena for tonight and Sunday, and then return to Playa Blanca for Monday and Tuesday nights. This hinges on no rain, and since the wind kicked up and the rain started as we were leaving today and it has not rained since we have been there, we are hoping that the storm will pass and when we get back it will be calm and sunny again! And the moon will be almost full!
The boat was a strange experience. We listened to UB40 jams, and sat through a performance that one of the boat employees put on where he was Michael Jackson dancing and lip synching in a not very convincing costume, but his routine was pretty good, and he was very enthused about it! We got into the old town port at sunset and headed back to our hotel. We saw a bunch of little kids out trick or treating, dressed up in such cute costumes! Halloween in Colombia, what a weird thing!
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Which ones are statues??
Pretty city...outside of the Modern Art Museum
Nice breakfast spot, not as good for dinner, well at least not for Kim and Wyatt, my pizza was quite good.
The wind was so strong on the boat that Wyatt had to wear my sunglasses as protection, otherwise he couldn't see.
This guy was my wind protection....and he had a very stylish perch on someones very big, very full bag that had "mikey and mimi mouse" all over it.
The place we are staying, with our very friendly host Ubi in the background.
Coco Loco!
After dinner stroll
This is a spot a little ways down from where we were staying called Mama Ruth camping. I got a kick out of this because my great Grandmother on my mom's side was named Ruth, but we all called her Mama Ruth, and I got my middle name from her. And she was a traveler too, I remember when she was still alive and we would go visit her and look through her photo albums at pictures of her in far away places. I think she would have liked Playa Blanca.
Huge pieces of coral on the beach at sunset....wish you could tell how tan I am in this photo, I am competing with locals now! Well, not quite, but I AM pretty dark...
Typical beach snack, mayonesa chips, a jar of green olives, tuna, saltines, and hot sauce.
Pretty Cartagnea skyline coming in on the boat from Playa Grande
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Our amazing last day, sun, beach, mayonessa chips....
Bottle of rum, goes down easy.....
Ok, this is Taganga Extreme! it just opened right before we left and is a sleek new coffee shop with wifi and muffins and expresso. Really, really weird and out of place in Taganga, especially with the oversized chairs and the bar and stools. And the expresso is weird too. And the board shop that is connected with huge windows with glass in them.
This street looked so different when we arrived, to the far right is the end of our street and the store where we got our first cold beers when we all stumbled into Taganga the morning everyone arrived, and at that time the ground was all dirt and none of it was paved. They are making dramatic progress with the construction, it looks like a different town.Changing plans....
So yesterday we got up and packed up and said our goodbyes. Got into the cab after the obligitory rum shots and tearful hugs. Shannon and Graham, I miss you already!
Got to the bus station in good time and went to buy our tickets all the way to Caracus, when we found out that they require flu shots to enter Venezuela. This put a damper on our plans since none of us has had them. So we sat down and started to plan going to the clinic and getting them and leaving the next day. The only thing is that flu shots make people get the flu, and if we got them, chances are we would be laid up for a few days at least, ruining about half of the time Kim has left here. So, new plan....since we have plans to return to Colombia within the next few years, Venezuela is going to wait till then, and we are going to spend the next few weeks exploring more of Colombias beaches instead. Other pros in this situation are that it takes off about 3 days of travel time that turn into days of fun instead, and we will be saving a bunch of money. Con in this situation is that we are pretty bummed to have to do a complete turnaround in planning, which is hard when you have your mind and heart set on something. Stupid swine flu!
So, we decided to hop on a bus to Cartagena, show Kim around the city, and when the weather turns nice (hopefully tomorrow!) we will go out to Playa Blanca for a few days and soak in some pretty island beaches. And then play the rest by ear. Today it is raining, so museums and gift shopping is on the agenda. And maybe finding Graham.
Got to the bus station in good time and went to buy our tickets all the way to Caracus, when we found out that they require flu shots to enter Venezuela. This put a damper on our plans since none of us has had them. So we sat down and started to plan going to the clinic and getting them and leaving the next day. The only thing is that flu shots make people get the flu, and if we got them, chances are we would be laid up for a few days at least, ruining about half of the time Kim has left here. So, new plan....since we have plans to return to Colombia within the next few years, Venezuela is going to wait till then, and we are going to spend the next few weeks exploring more of Colombias beaches instead. Other pros in this situation are that it takes off about 3 days of travel time that turn into days of fun instead, and we will be saving a bunch of money. Con in this situation is that we are pretty bummed to have to do a complete turnaround in planning, which is hard when you have your mind and heart set on something. Stupid swine flu!
So, we decided to hop on a bus to Cartagena, show Kim around the city, and when the weather turns nice (hopefully tomorrow!) we will go out to Playa Blanca for a few days and soak in some pretty island beaches. And then play the rest by ear. Today it is raining, so museums and gift shopping is on the agenda. And maybe finding Graham.
Pretty lady, pretty place. We have had such a roller coaster of weather, a lot of it being grey, or rainy since we are in the month of rainy season, we were so excited to get a full day of sun and warmth with hardly any clouds our last day, that we spent the whole day in it.
It is amazing the difference in the view since we arrived! It is so lush and green now, where it was pretty brown and orange when we got here.
Oh Mona, our deer, horse, dog. I will miss your cute trusting face, watching you gallop behind the van as we go into Santa Marta, learning your funny little habits, like not taking some streets and meeting us at the end of the way, tail wagging so hard, so glad we made it! I will not miss you attacking little girls or "pulling a Mona" though, or your fleas and ticks.
Our tienda
I really liked both the book and the movie version of "High Fidelity," for a few reasons. 1. I love making lists and could relate to the main character a lot in this way. 2. I have had a little love thing for John Cusack ever since "Say Anything," I know, un-original, I am one in many. 3. I LOVE making mix tapes! I like getting them too, but I find huge satisfaction in making a good mix tape, and have made many over the years. So, like I have with so many people, and new loves in my life, I have made one for Taganga, and for our time there. A pretty big chapter in this trip has closed and I have been thinking about it a lot. How often in your life can you go on vacation with 8 of your closest friends and hang out in a beautiful place without the distractions and obligations of your real life getting in the way?? For many people this never happens on any scale, and I feel profoundly lucky to have had this time with everyone. And to still be having it with Kim, and then with Brettley in a few weeks!
So here it is, my mix tape.
Side 1.
This must be the place (naive melody)- Talking Heads (this song has been one I keep coming back to the whole trip....kind of like an anthem......"Home, it's where I want to be, but I think I'm already there.")
I'm a lady- Santogold
Lex- Ratatat
Bloodbank- Bon Iver (one of the prettiest love songs ever)
Wolf among wolves- Bonnie Prince Billie (for this one hungover day....)
Harvest Moon- Niel Young (for my wonderful man)
In an aeroplane over the sea- Neutral milk hotel
I've been riding with the ghost- Songs Ohia
Crazy about you- Whiskeytown (re-discovered my love of Ryan Adams)
Last Dance with Mary Jane- Tom Petty (for that night under the stars)
Hurricane- Bob Dylan (memories of eating pasta salad and lentils out of huge ziplock bags and tuna and green olives on saltine.....and drinking rum in hammocks in paradise)
Fast Car- Tracy Chapman (first heard this watching the sunset with Shannon and Luke at the Eugene resevoir....tried to remember words with Shannon on beach in Colombia about 12 years later...not as pretty, but still pretty great)
One hundred years- M. Ward
All you ever wanted- The Black Keys
Si no te hubieras ido- don't know ( from the "Y tu mama tambien" soundtrack. I have this great memory of being in the car with Chelsea driving to the coast years and years ago, her translating it to me as it pulsed loud and sad through the car)
Side 2
Smiling Faces- Gnarls Barkley (for my friend Robert, who I miss terribley)
Sunday Shining- Finley Quaye (the token reggae song, and an ode to Sundays which are great even on vacation)
Love song #7- Clap your hands, say yeah
Electric Feel- MGMT
Private Eyes- Hall and Oates (clap, clap)
Nighttrain- G&R
Gold Lion- Yeah, Yeah. Yeahs
Ay, Doctor- Mana
Calle 8- Pitbull (yeah, it's everywhere!)
And then there is a smattering of popular Colombian song I would love to throw in there, but don't have names or artists....
So here it is, my mix tape.
Side 1.
This must be the place (naive melody)- Talking Heads (this song has been one I keep coming back to the whole trip....kind of like an anthem......"Home, it's where I want to be, but I think I'm already there.")
I'm a lady- Santogold
Lex- Ratatat
Bloodbank- Bon Iver (one of the prettiest love songs ever)
Wolf among wolves- Bonnie Prince Billie (for this one hungover day....)
Harvest Moon- Niel Young (for my wonderful man)
In an aeroplane over the sea- Neutral milk hotel
I've been riding with the ghost- Songs Ohia
Crazy about you- Whiskeytown (re-discovered my love of Ryan Adams)
Last Dance with Mary Jane- Tom Petty (for that night under the stars)
Hurricane- Bob Dylan (memories of eating pasta salad and lentils out of huge ziplock bags and tuna and green olives on saltine.....and drinking rum in hammocks in paradise)
Fast Car- Tracy Chapman (first heard this watching the sunset with Shannon and Luke at the Eugene resevoir....tried to remember words with Shannon on beach in Colombia about 12 years later...not as pretty, but still pretty great)
One hundred years- M. Ward
All you ever wanted- The Black Keys
Si no te hubieras ido- don't know ( from the "Y tu mama tambien" soundtrack. I have this great memory of being in the car with Chelsea driving to the coast years and years ago, her translating it to me as it pulsed loud and sad through the car)
Side 2
Smiling Faces- Gnarls Barkley (for my friend Robert, who I miss terribley)
Sunday Shining- Finley Quaye (the token reggae song, and an ode to Sundays which are great even on vacation)
Love song #7- Clap your hands, say yeah
Electric Feel- MGMT
Private Eyes- Hall and Oates (clap, clap)
Nighttrain- G&R
Gold Lion- Yeah, Yeah. Yeahs
Ay, Doctor- Mana
Calle 8- Pitbull (yeah, it's everywhere!)
And then there is a smattering of popular Colombian song I would love to throw in there, but don't have names or artists....
Monday, October 26, 2009
So Mom´s visit ended....it went sooo fast! I can hardly believe it! We had such a nice time, it was great to see her here, and have her be able to see my life here. Also, we got in some good relaxing time which is what both she and Kim needed. Her last night here we went out to Pachamama and had such a nice dinner, and then went to the house and just talked and hung out. After she went to bed, the party people cmae over for a while and we all had shots and played dice.
The next day Mom´s plane didn´t leave till 9 at night so we went into Santa Marta to have lunch and buy souveniers. Then some lazy swimming, some final packing, and out to the airport. Wyatt and I sent a huge bag back with her, which felt amazing to unload all our cold weather clothes, and some old books and blanket and things we have bought along the way. Gives us sort of a fresh start heading out tomorrow.
On Friday Shannon, Graham, Wyatt, Kim, and I, the final 5 headed out to Parque de Tayrona, crammed in Jose´s van with 6 other people. It was like when we went out to Palamino, 11 people squished into a van not meant for so many. But our travel companions were nice, and greeted us with a bottle of Aguardiente, so the ride went quickly. When we got there, Jose drove us in a bit, but then it´s about a 2 hour hike in to where we stayed. It was hot and humid and buggy as hell, but being in the jungle is amazing. Everything is oversized, the rocks and leaves and bugs and we saw some enormous hives! Coming to the break in the jungle where you arrive to the first beach feels amazing, until you realize you can´t swim there and have to hike along the beach for about another 20 minutes. But then after another small hike through the jungle you find yourself at a little cove, and we immediately got into the water. Such a reward!
The beach we stayed at was Cabo, and it was one of the most amazing beaches I have ever seen! It was so beautiful it felt constructed, like we were at a Disney resort or something. There were tents and hammocks everywhere, bathrooms and showers, a highly overpriced restaurant and store, and the beaches. Sleeping in hammocks was awesome...the first night we couldn´t get into the upper cabana that overlooks two Carribean beaches and the open ocean. So the first night we stayed in the shitty hammocks right next to the restaurant,so buggy and muggy, we were glad to get the upper ones the next night. Like nothing I have ever seen. We had an amazing time, the only kind of dissapointing thing was that it was pretty rainy and grey most the time. But stormy is ok snuggled in a hammock reading. We had good food, and dice, and books, and the trip was so incredible. Was sorry to leave, but it was a great way to start to say goodbye to Colombia. Our ride home was fun, it was only us and Jose took us on a tour to the Colombian Sandy river, and a roundabout way home, which was fun. Cold beer never tasted so good. And back to Taganga, some good food cooked by other people for us, and crime tv.....felt like coming home.
The next day Mom´s plane didn´t leave till 9 at night so we went into Santa Marta to have lunch and buy souveniers. Then some lazy swimming, some final packing, and out to the airport. Wyatt and I sent a huge bag back with her, which felt amazing to unload all our cold weather clothes, and some old books and blanket and things we have bought along the way. Gives us sort of a fresh start heading out tomorrow.
On Friday Shannon, Graham, Wyatt, Kim, and I, the final 5 headed out to Parque de Tayrona, crammed in Jose´s van with 6 other people. It was like when we went out to Palamino, 11 people squished into a van not meant for so many. But our travel companions were nice, and greeted us with a bottle of Aguardiente, so the ride went quickly. When we got there, Jose drove us in a bit, but then it´s about a 2 hour hike in to where we stayed. It was hot and humid and buggy as hell, but being in the jungle is amazing. Everything is oversized, the rocks and leaves and bugs and we saw some enormous hives! Coming to the break in the jungle where you arrive to the first beach feels amazing, until you realize you can´t swim there and have to hike along the beach for about another 20 minutes. But then after another small hike through the jungle you find yourself at a little cove, and we immediately got into the water. Such a reward!
The beach we stayed at was Cabo, and it was one of the most amazing beaches I have ever seen! It was so beautiful it felt constructed, like we were at a Disney resort or something. There were tents and hammocks everywhere, bathrooms and showers, a highly overpriced restaurant and store, and the beaches. Sleeping in hammocks was awesome...the first night we couldn´t get into the upper cabana that overlooks two Carribean beaches and the open ocean. So the first night we stayed in the shitty hammocks right next to the restaurant,so buggy and muggy, we were glad to get the upper ones the next night. Like nothing I have ever seen. We had an amazing time, the only kind of dissapointing thing was that it was pretty rainy and grey most the time. But stormy is ok snuggled in a hammock reading. We had good food, and dice, and books, and the trip was so incredible. Was sorry to leave, but it was a great way to start to say goodbye to Colombia. Our ride home was fun, it was only us and Jose took us on a tour to the Colombian Sandy river, and a roundabout way home, which was fun. Cold beer never tasted so good. And back to Taganga, some good food cooked by other people for us, and crime tv.....felt like coming home.
Mom´s visit ends, Parque de Tayrona, starting my goodbyes to Taganga
Sunset from our deck at home
Kim on vacation
Mom on vacation
Mom´s last night dinner at Pachamama, Shannon´s friend Geoffry´s bar/restaurant where they serve amazing food and blended coctails with fresh fruit juice. It was so good, and a nice way to end Mom´s trip.
Some of the beautiful food.
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