Sunday, November 29, 2009
Like a firm undersea handshake....
We finally woke up to sun and blue sky! Success! Took a boat over to Red Frog beach that was beautiful with soft sand and big waves, though Brett was the only one who actually saw a red frog. The water was clear and you have to walk so far out before it gets any deeper than your shins or knees, and the waves are forceful. Also, there is a pretty strong current so you have to be really careful in the ocean around here. It was cool taking the boat over there and cruising by all the little islands on the way, cause it was one of the further away islands, made me so excited to be out and about and not having to have left without seeing any of it. Hoping for more of the same tomorrow.
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Rainy Season
Woke up this morning to rain; sheets of huge drop, falling sideways, tropics rain. Sigh, we knew coming in it was the beginning of the wet season on the islands, but didn't realize that meant that of the 5 days we have been here, only 1 would be sunny. Now I am kicking myself for not doing anything that day, no matter how badly I was feeling, because I am feeling the cabin fever setting in, and the frustration mounting. I want to snorkel, and have been looking forward to this stop for much of our trip, and the thought of leaving without having seen much of anything this area has to offer is depressing. But, I think we are leaving tomorrow, cause time is limited and waking up day after day to dissapointment is getting old. So, Puerto Viejo is promising us sun, and pulling us with that promise.
On the up side I guess is that both last night and this morning we saw a marching band making their way down main street. Happy weekend.
On the up side I guess is that both last night and this morning we saw a marching band making their way down main street. Happy weekend.
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Happy Thanksgiving!
Bounty! So excited for it, can you tell??
Our buddies Stu and Tori from Virginia.
Full and done.
Yesterday, Brettley met up with us in Bocas. He got in around 6:30pm after some frustration with buses and borders, under a rain cloud, and we quickly sat him down to an icey .99c beer. Of course in the process of catching up and hearing all the gossip from back home and sharing travel stories, I got quite drunk. It has been a while, so....well, I got too drunk.
This morning was painful, the hangover factor was high and it was hard to move for a while, in fact for most of the day. So I spent most of the day on the great rooftop patio, in the balmy breeze, writing loved ones Thanksgiving emails, overly sappy emails in my fragile state. It was a beautiful day today, the nicest we have had here, and of course instead of doing something cool like tour around the islands on a boat (which I think we are going to do tomorrow instead) I couldn't do much of anything. Then it was time to head to the Thanksgiving dinner the hostels put together for all the travelers...even shipped in a turkey! There were so many people there, we had to stand in line for about 25 minutes before getting our plates, but it was worth it! So good, we had turkey and potatoes, green bean cassarole, stuffing, carrots, gravy, the works. The hostel was stuffed full of people so we went out and joined the crowd sitting on the curb, including the friends we made in line who were from Virginia and who are thinking of moving to Oregon. We sang it's praises of course.
So now I am so full and again unable to move, and the boys went out to "get loose," I didn't have it in me again tonight. Boys night out.
This morning was painful, the hangover factor was high and it was hard to move for a while, in fact for most of the day. So I spent most of the day on the great rooftop patio, in the balmy breeze, writing loved ones Thanksgiving emails, overly sappy emails in my fragile state. It was a beautiful day today, the nicest we have had here, and of course instead of doing something cool like tour around the islands on a boat (which I think we are going to do tomorrow instead) I couldn't do much of anything. Then it was time to head to the Thanksgiving dinner the hostels put together for all the travelers...even shipped in a turkey! There were so many people there, we had to stand in line for about 25 minutes before getting our plates, but it was worth it! So good, we had turkey and potatoes, green bean cassarole, stuffing, carrots, gravy, the works. The hostel was stuffed full of people so we went out and joined the crowd sitting on the curb, including the friends we made in line who were from Virginia and who are thinking of moving to Oregon. We sang it's praises of course.
So now I am so full and again unable to move, and the boys went out to "get loose," I didn't have it in me again tonight. Boys night out.
Brett Arrives!!
Meow!! Brettley arrives in Bocas! Check out the sweet shirt he had made at the state fair...puppy dogs, lasers, unicorns.....priceless!
After i was done, the gecko sipped at what was left in the rim....geckos like rum and coke too!
The deck outside our room at the hostel
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
We left Panama City at 8pm Monday night. Our last night in town gave me kind of a bad taste in my mouth cause for about an hour this sketchy, possibley drugged up dude was following us around, very badly trying to hide behind very small objects thinking we didn't know he was there, and at one point trying to pick Wyatt's pocket. Kind of a reminder about how poor the area was we were staying, how maybe I need to be less obvious with my camera sometimes, and how you can forget about the dangers around you sometimes. Anyway, it all worked out fine, nothing really happened, I think the worst part was we were coming home from getting our tickets at the bus station and had too much money on us, and our documents.
The bus ride was horrible, one of the worst. First of all, there was barely any room, not good for a guy with really long legs. Plus, Wyatt has an injury on his leg, and was in a good deal of pain to add to discomfort. It was freezing, much colder than I remembered they make the buses, and I hardly slept for more than 10 minutes at a time the whole 8 hours. We finally got into Almirante, the town on the mainland where we caught the boat to the island, met by the early light of 6 am, and rain. It cleared up by the time we got on the boat, bleary eyed but eager to go to an island, and the ride out was beautiful. We passed neighborhoods of houses on stilts standing in the water, palm trees filled with crowds of parrots yelling at each other, a huge rusted out boat sticking out of the calm water. The ride took about a half hour, and then we were all shuttled off by the guys trying to seel hotel rooms and boat tours to alll the beaches and different islands.
I like Bocas a lot, it's a quiet island town with few cars and friendly locals who mostly all speak english since most of the livelyhood depends on the crowds of tourists. I feel like there are more tourists here than locals, which is the only down side to this place. You think of Panama and you think old leathery men in white brimmed hats: check. Smoking cigars: check. Leisurely riding bikes, souvenier stalls, calm blue green water, rice and beans and fish, fruit juices, cheap beer, colorful, all these thing in abundance.
It rained all yesterday, which was actually fine since Wyatt is hurt and wanting to rest and recover, and we were both tired from not sleeping the night before, we took a few hour nap, and both slept like logs last night. Then, we woke up to sun. It is a beautiful day, and we were talking to a few local guys who have lived here all their lives and said that here, the weather goes in cycles, 5 days of rain (which they just had) and then 5 days of sun. I hope they are right, they sure sounded confident! I am drinking iced tea and listening to music full of maracas and horns, sounds of the island for sure, with a mix of spanish and english around me.
The bus ride was horrible, one of the worst. First of all, there was barely any room, not good for a guy with really long legs. Plus, Wyatt has an injury on his leg, and was in a good deal of pain to add to discomfort. It was freezing, much colder than I remembered they make the buses, and I hardly slept for more than 10 minutes at a time the whole 8 hours. We finally got into Almirante, the town on the mainland where we caught the boat to the island, met by the early light of 6 am, and rain. It cleared up by the time we got on the boat, bleary eyed but eager to go to an island, and the ride out was beautiful. We passed neighborhoods of houses on stilts standing in the water, palm trees filled with crowds of parrots yelling at each other, a huge rusted out boat sticking out of the calm water. The ride took about a half hour, and then we were all shuttled off by the guys trying to seel hotel rooms and boat tours to alll the beaches and different islands.
I like Bocas a lot, it's a quiet island town with few cars and friendly locals who mostly all speak english since most of the livelyhood depends on the crowds of tourists. I feel like there are more tourists here than locals, which is the only down side to this place. You think of Panama and you think old leathery men in white brimmed hats: check. Smoking cigars: check. Leisurely riding bikes, souvenier stalls, calm blue green water, rice and beans and fish, fruit juices, cheap beer, colorful, all these thing in abundance.
It rained all yesterday, which was actually fine since Wyatt is hurt and wanting to rest and recover, and we were both tired from not sleeping the night before, we took a few hour nap, and both slept like logs last night. Then, we woke up to sun. It is a beautiful day, and we were talking to a few local guys who have lived here all their lives and said that here, the weather goes in cycles, 5 days of rain (which they just had) and then 5 days of sun. I hope they are right, they sure sounded confident! I am drinking iced tea and listening to music full of maracas and horns, sounds of the island for sure, with a mix of spanish and english around me.
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Sunday walk
The Kuna Indian pieces
The old pool and view from whats left of the Grand hotel, I think thats what it was called.
I love how it sounds here. Last night we were laying in the room, warm, with the air from the fan wafting over us, music drifting in through the window, and the hum of the people in the streets. It was not so loud that it was invasive, it was perfect. The dark red curtains were moving, the last light from outside was on the walls, and the peeling paint and water damaged wood from years of wear. There is something that feels so right about it. We had just gotten back from a long walk down Avenida Balboa, the walk along the water that winds towards the city and was all lit up by the city lights. It was really pretty, and people were out in droves, walking with their kids, the older kids dressed to the nines and trying to impress each other, food stalls set up, roller bladers and runners passing us on all sides. The Rocky movies are pretty big here cause one of the major figures in Panama was named Balboa. There is even a Balboa beer.
Today is Sunday, steamy, sweaty Sunday. The day started off with sun and people still partying from last night. We have been getting up really early which has been so nice to take full advantage of our days. Most stores were closed today, or opened late, but there is a busy street life here on Sundays, a market with part artisan wares, part Kuna Indian stalls, and part flea market, with a run of food stalls, and a stage set up with bright costumes and dancing and music and loud make up. The Kuna Indians make these beautiful embroidered and quilted pieces that are brightly colored and just beautiful. You see the women everywhere in their native dress, full beaded cuffs covering from their knees to ankel, and from wrist to elbow. Then full patterned textiles wrap around as a skirt, and the embroidered quilted pieces are sewn around the bodice below billowing patterned chiffon type material. It is all bright and busy, and topped off with a head scarf and beaded necklaces, which they also make.
We also walked along the water around old town, back towards the skeleton of what used to be a grand hotel. I guess on Sundays it is open for the public to walk around, and it is incredible and massive, and decaying. But really impressive, with some of the tile work still in place and a great view of the city skyline. Also we got to see a music video getting filmed there, which was pretty funny and consisted of girls dancing in bikinis with guys, one of which was dressed as superman, and around their feet were about 7 inflatable beach balls.
After we got lunch the rain started coming down and we headed back to our hotel room for a while. Then headed out and bought our tickets to the north, for Bocas del Toro, where we head tomorrow night. Back to the beach after our time in the city, and to find our friend Brettley.
Today is Sunday, steamy, sweaty Sunday. The day started off with sun and people still partying from last night. We have been getting up really early which has been so nice to take full advantage of our days. Most stores were closed today, or opened late, but there is a busy street life here on Sundays, a market with part artisan wares, part Kuna Indian stalls, and part flea market, with a run of food stalls, and a stage set up with bright costumes and dancing and music and loud make up. The Kuna Indians make these beautiful embroidered and quilted pieces that are brightly colored and just beautiful. You see the women everywhere in their native dress, full beaded cuffs covering from their knees to ankel, and from wrist to elbow. Then full patterned textiles wrap around as a skirt, and the embroidered quilted pieces are sewn around the bodice below billowing patterned chiffon type material. It is all bright and busy, and topped off with a head scarf and beaded necklaces, which they also make.
We also walked along the water around old town, back towards the skeleton of what used to be a grand hotel. I guess on Sundays it is open for the public to walk around, and it is incredible and massive, and decaying. But really impressive, with some of the tile work still in place and a great view of the city skyline. Also we got to see a music video getting filmed there, which was pretty funny and consisted of girls dancing in bikinis with guys, one of which was dressed as superman, and around their feet were about 7 inflatable beach balls.
After we got lunch the rain started coming down and we headed back to our hotel room for a while. Then headed out and bought our tickets to the north, for Bocas del Toro, where we head tomorrow night. Back to the beach after our time in the city, and to find our friend Brettley.
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Goodbye South, Hello Central.
So, after 4 months and 19 days of traveling in South America, Wyatt and I hopped on a plane in Barranquilla, Colombia, and ended up in Panama City, Panama. It is taking some time to adjust. It looks a lot like Latin America, but they use the dollar and there are packages and billboards in English, and American brands of food everywhere, and english words mixing with spanish. It is so different than South America so far too. Bumping along in the old cab we squeezed into with 3 other travelers to get into the city from the airport on Thursday night, we saw the skyline all lit up. Huge skyscrapers are something we have not seen in a while! Getting on a plane made it feel like we were going home, but after an hour of trying to avoid watching the elderly drunk couple make out in front of us, and eating something like cold chicken pate, and going through customs and imigration, we were in another country, but not home yet.
We are on our second full day, and starting to feel better about things. Not feeling sick anymore which is a huge relief, really like the area we are staying in, the old town, finding cheap deals and nice people, and an energy that feels new. The feel is just different here....its so hard to explain. I got so lost yesterday in the maze of streets. Finally a cop stopped and told me it was too dangerous to be walking by myself and where I was going. He made a map for me on his hand of the block and a half I had to walk, and asked me about myself, and was so nice. I realized I had been walking in circles, around and around the street our hotel was on. I guess I am just feeling disoriented.
We went to the Panama Canal today, which was pretty amazing. We saw a ship go through, and saw the movie about the construction of it, and dodged throngs of tourists and school kids who were just taking photos on their phones of all the exhibitions instead of reading them. It was diffeent than I imagined....I imagined it to be busier, bigger, more hustle and bustle, but it was fairly quiet and straightforward. It was still pretty awesome to see the boats going through the locks and that whole process of raising and lowering the water levels and the boats to get them level with the next body of water they are going into. And to see the small boats hitch up to the ships to guide them through, some boats being just big enough to slide through with mere inches between them and the canal walls. And it is incredible at how much some of the bigger boats have to pay to get through the canal...sometimes upwards of hundreds of thousands of dollars!
I really like this city. Glad to have the extra time here.
We are on our second full day, and starting to feel better about things. Not feeling sick anymore which is a huge relief, really like the area we are staying in, the old town, finding cheap deals and nice people, and an energy that feels new. The feel is just different here....its so hard to explain. I got so lost yesterday in the maze of streets. Finally a cop stopped and told me it was too dangerous to be walking by myself and where I was going. He made a map for me on his hand of the block and a half I had to walk, and asked me about myself, and was so nice. I realized I had been walking in circles, around and around the street our hotel was on. I guess I am just feeling disoriented.
We went to the Panama Canal today, which was pretty amazing. We saw a ship go through, and saw the movie about the construction of it, and dodged throngs of tourists and school kids who were just taking photos on their phones of all the exhibitions instead of reading them. It was diffeent than I imagined....I imagined it to be busier, bigger, more hustle and bustle, but it was fairly quiet and straightforward. It was still pretty awesome to see the boats going through the locks and that whole process of raising and lowering the water levels and the boats to get them level with the next body of water they are going into. And to see the small boats hitch up to the ships to guide them through, some boats being just big enough to slide through with mere inches between them and the canal walls. And it is incredible at how much some of the bigger boats have to pay to get through the canal...sometimes upwards of hundreds of thousands of dollars!
I really like this city. Glad to have the extra time here.
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